There
is a little town on Vancouver Island about a 45 minute drive north of Nanaimo
called Bowser. Not a lot goes on there. Many of the people who live in the area
are retired. The town is by the ocean and there are a few stores on either side
of the old Island Highway that runs right through the community. There is
hardware store, a couple of small grocery stores, one of which also sells
liquor, one garage, a legion hall, and newer small strip mall with a coffee
shop.
The
area is known as “lighthouse country”. Off in the distance a few miles away you
can see a lighthouse on a tiny island right next to Denman Island. The only way
to get to Denman Island and Hornby Island right next to it by car is by
catching a ferry from Buckley Bay which is about a half hour’s drive north of
Bowser.
Lighthouse off of Denman Island |
Years
ago, before insurance rates made the business impossible, there were a number
of small boat rental places dotted along the eastern coast of Vancouver Island.
Campbell River had a number of them. There was one also in Qualicum Beach
called Patterson’s. All that is left of Patterson’s today and their boat dock
are some weathered grey posts sticking out of the water. I once caught a couple
of salmon fishing from a rented boat from Patterson’s late on a summer
afternoon back in the 1970s. Just off the shelf a few hundred yards out at sea.
In
the late summer of 1988 my ex-wife and her parents and I spent a weekend at the
Sand Pebbles Inn at Qualicum Beach. My ex was pregnant at the time and we would
later find out that we were going to have twins. It was supposed to be a lazy
kind of weekend but I was getting itchy feet. I asked if anyone would mind if I
went fishing the following morning and was told to go ahead. I drove up to
Bowser about a half hour away and reserved a boat at Bowser Bill’s for the next
day.
Qualicum Beach |
Bowser Bill's sign. |
I
got up at about 4:30 a.m. the following morning and as quiet as a church mouse
I slipped out of our motel room and drove up to Bowser Bill’s. A teenager was
awaiting me. We lifted the boat onto a railway track kind of thing and slid the
boat out onto the water. By this time the sun was just starting to rise. I assumed
that all the necessary gear was on board. I was going to catch some salmon.
Salmon
can be caught at any time of the day but the best time is very early in the
morning until about 9:00 a.m. and in the evening a few hours before sunset.
There is also some tidal stuff that comes into play and where your boat is
located. Not to forget using the proper bait.
I
gunned the motor and headed straight out to sea. Off in the distance I could
see several boats in the same area. I decided to join them thinking they must
know something I didn’t. I shut the motor off and rigged up my fishing rod.
Once everything was set up and with my line in the water, I started the motor
again but this time at a much slower speed and started trolling. I probably had
about 100 feet or so of line out with the lure being about 20 feet below the
water surface.
I
started to do slow wide figure eights with the boat. A few times when I got
within hailing distance of the other boats I made a hand sign that looks like
you are suggesting the size of a fish. The responses were headshakes which
meant they hadn’t caught any fish yet.
A
few hours went by and the salmon were not biting. I noticed a few seals popping
their heads up. That is never a good sign. They scare the crap out of salmon. The
other boats started to disappear but I was determined to max out my fishing
opportunity. I think it was around noon time when I finally decided to pack it
in and head back to Bowser Bill’s.
I
hauled in my line and expected to have the boat back in about an hour. I looked
for the silhouette of the mountains and pointed the boat in that direction. I
don’t know if I was daydreaming at the time but about 45 minutes later it
seemed like I wasn’t getting any closer to shore.
The
water was starting to get a little choppy and I looked around for a life vest.
There was none. The boat I was in was about 14 feet long and aluminium. There
was no steering wheel and the boat was directed by holding on to the arm
connected to a 9 horsepower motor. Not exactly a powerhouse. I started to wonder
if maybe I had become disoriented doing all of those figure eights.
Distances
can become confusing on the open sea. Things like land and islands can appear
to be closer than they are. I realized I didn’t really know where I was. And
now it was windy and the water was choppy. A little boat like the one I was in
could get swamped by a big wave. And no damned life vest!
Map of Denman and Hornby Islands |
I
told myself not to panic and just stay in the direction I was headed. I didn’t want to second guess myself. By now
my hand was frozen on the steering arm. It took me about another hour and a
half to get to where I was headed. As I got closer to the shore all I could see
was deep forests behind the beaches and hardly any houses. This didn’t seem
right.
I
dragged the boat up on the rocky beach and spotted someone standing on a bluff
a few hundred yards away. I made my way over to a person who was about 30 years
of age and had a beard. Maybe a squatter or a back to the earth type I thought
to myself?
“Can
you tell me where I am?” I asked. “Texada Island.” he responded. Texada Island?
Gazooks! I had travelled in the totally opposite direction that I had intended
to. I asked the Texadan if he could point out where he thought Bowser was and
he pointed to a gap in the grey silhouette of mountains on Vancouver Island
that looked like they were a long, long way away.
Texada
Island is one of the biggest islands off of the B.C. coast and one of the least
populated.
Map of Texada Island |
I
went back to the boat but before relaunching it for my return trip I took a
peak at the gas tank gauge. It appeared to be about half full. I never thought
to check the spare tank. I wasn’t looking forward to the next few hours.
A
9 horsepower motor doesn’t get you anywhere fast. The sea was getting choppier
and choppier. I had to stay focused with a firm hand on the steering arm.
Without a life vest I could be in trouble. It is one thing to have the boat
capsize close to shore where I might be able to swim to land but out on the
open sea my only chance of survival would be clinging to the overturned boat
and just hoping someone spotted it me.
I
also discovered that the boat didn’t have any oars. There was only a paddle.
The kid who gave me the boat a number of hours before really hadn’t checked
anything out it seemed.
After
about another 2 hours I could see that I was getting close to another island. And
then….the motor conked out. This was when I discovered that the spare gas
container was also empty. Things were not looking very good. Luckily I managed
to use the paddle to get the boat ashore on Hornby Island and I dragged it up on some rocks.
Now
I had to figure out how to get some more gas. I found a trail that led to me to
a nature preserve parking lot. On the trail I bumped into a very large gal and
a small skinny guy who told me where the parking lot was. The thought crossed
my mind as to what the oddly matched couple was up to out on the forest. They
also told me that I was on Hornby Island. Having been to this island a number
of years before I knew there was a small village on it somewhere.
Hornby Island |
Hornby Island |
There
were several cars in the parking lot. The only people around were 3 women, a
mother, a grandmother, and a young girl, who were just about to leave the
parking lot. I explained my predicament and they kind of reluctantly agreed to
give me a lift into town.
I
walked into the local Co-op with the idea of buying a plastic gas container.
There were a few back to the earth types in the store. I made the decision to
go with a smaller gas container (big mistake) and had it filled up with gas. I
told the store clerk of my adventure and after listening to my story he asked
me if I would like to put my purchase on my Co-op card. I started to laugh and
thought “Man I don’t have any Co-op card! I’m marooned!”
I
walked back to the road I had come into town on and stuck my thumb out trying
to get a lift back to the park parking lot. It was way too far to walk to.
Within a few minutes a gal in her thirties picked me up. Quite attractive too.
I was married so I just had Jimmy Carter kind of thoughts. She drove me right
to the parking lot. I made my way back along the trail, found the boat and
gassed her up and once more I was at sea.
There
was one more island I had to pass before getting back to Vancouver Island and
it was Denman Island. The one with the lighthouse just off it. Between Hornby and Denman
Island there is a very strong current and it seemed to take forever in getting
anywhere. Eventually I made it past Denman and the short distance from there to
Vancouver Island. The worst was over and my plan was to just follow the shore
about 50 feet off until I made it down to Bowser. It was now about 6:00 p.m. in
the evening.
It
was kind of comforting seeing all the waterfront houses pass by after most of a
day spent out on the open sea. And then…..I ran out of gas again! Gazooks
redux! Fortunately, I could see a guy mowing his lawn. I yelled over to him
asking if he could sell me a bit of gas. He asked where I was headed and I told
him my circumstances after I paddled the boat closer to him. He gave me the gas
for nothing and said he would phone ahead to Bowser Bill’s and let them know I
was coming.
About
an hour later, I cruised into Bowser Bill’s. They were waiting for me. When I
stepped out of the boat an older guy gave me a hug. I said something about
probably owing him a fortune because I had had the boat for a long time. He
replied that he was just happy that I was alive and in one piece. I too was
happy and grateful and I never bothered to give them shit for providing me with
a boat without the proper gear.
By
the time I made it back to the motel it was about 8:00 p.m. I had been gone for
about for over 14 hours. In my absence a discussion had been had as to whether
or not to put out an APB on me. They were about to make the call when I walked
through the door.
It
had been a tiring day with an adventure I hadn’t planned on but at least I had
a good story to tell.
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