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Cooper. |
After spending about 2 weeks this past summer in Ontario,
Quebec, upstate New York and Vermont, it was time to head back to Vancouver
Island where we live. All in all, I put about 13,000 kilometers on the odometer
including the drive across Canada.
It can get pretty hot on Vancouver Island in the summer
but there is always a bit of a breeze. Linda and I had forgotten how close and
humid it can get in the summer back east. It can be kind of draining if you are
not used to it. Now I know why older folks who go on long road trips always
seem to plan them in the fall or springtime.
Our basic plan was to cross into the US at Michigan and
make our way to two particular spots along the way out to the Pacific Ocean,
Mount Rushmore and Yellowstone National Park.
We had no idea that the temperature would be as high as
105 degrees. In fact, last summer was the hottest on record in the US since
something like 1889. Linda likes air conditioning in the car and I prefer the
windows open and the breeze coming in. The latter isn’t much of an option when
it really gets hot out.
We crossed over the border at Port Huron and a few hours
later found a beach with sand dunes along the shores of Lake Michigan, a good
place for our dog to have a swim. We spent our first night in a motel just
outside of East Lansing, Michigan.
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Lake Michigan. |
The next day we put in a lot of miles. We went through
Indiana and Illinois and ended up in the small town of Leclaire, Iowa. We
stayed at a motel up on a hill overlooking the Mississippi River below. The
back entranceway to the motel was clogged with dead mayflies. There were
thousands of them. I drove around looking for a place that had take-out food
and found a little sandwich shop by the river. I overheard some people talking
about visiting the building that the American Pickers operate from. American
Pickers is a TV show about two guys from Iowa who drive all over the US looking
for lost treasures they can make a buck on.
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American Pickers. |
We checked out of our motel fairly early the next morning
hoping to beat the heat for at least a few hours. That didn’t work. It was
really hot out at 8 a.m. We drove down to the river and stopped where a
Mississippi riverboat was moored. It took a little bit of time to find it, but
up the road a bit we found the warehouse and office for the American Pickers. In
front of the building there was a rusted old Hudson sitting up on a mound. Apparently
the parking lot is often crammed with tourists. We were the only people there
when we visited.
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Old Hudson. |
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American Pickers home base Leclaire, Iowa. |
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Mississippi riverboat, Leclaire, Iowa. |
We got back on the main highway and about an hour later
pulled off the highway to visit a little community called The Amana Colonies.
There are seven little villages in the area and it is populated by a religious
group called The Ebonezer Society or The Community of True Inspiration. Most of
them have German ancestry and they have a self-sufficient local economy.
Everything looked very tidy. I grabbed a pastry at the local baker’s and we
bought some sausages at the butcher’s.
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Amana Colonies. |
We drove past endless corn fields in Iowa. The
temperature in the daytime was now as high as 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Each
morning we packed up a small cooler that we kept in the back seat of the car.
The back seat was our dog Cooper’s spot and we made sure he had plenty of water
to drink. We pulled into Sioux City, Iowa and found a motel.
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Cornfields. |
I’m not sure what day it was that we started to feel we
were in some kind of marathon. The weather was starting to tap us. Even when we
stopped to get gas or something to eat it was hard to find any shade. We took
turns driving and there were long stretches of not seeing much off of the
highway that was interesting. By the end of every day we were just happy to
find an air conditioned motel room.
All across the US, other than fast food joints, we found
the restaurant food to be awful. We weren’t sure if many of the restaurants
lacked in knowledge of food preparation or just didn’t care. Maybe it was a
small town thing as we avoided staying in larger cities. Americans seem to love
things like biscuits and gravy with the gravy being kind of lumpy. In hindsight
we should have brought a list of diners, drive-ins and dives. After a long day
it can be a kind of empty feeling when the salad you ordered turns up with
wilted lettuce with brown ends.
About a month ago I posted a comment on a site on the net
about the crappy food we experienced and someone commented back that we had
chosen the worst states to drive through expecting something reasonable to eat.
He said he was a travelling salesman and the first rule is to stay away from
square shaped states. Who knew?
We spent a forgettable night in Sioux City, Iowa and made
our way into South Dakota the following morning. Linda had made notes of things
to see along the way and we stopped off at The Corn Palace in Mitchell, South
Dakota. Apparently about a half a million people visit this tourist trap every
year. We wandered around for about an hour. At one of the shops I saw a big
blanket that had famous American Indians depicted on Mount Rushmore instead of
the dead presidents. I thought it was funny. All in all the town was a
bit….corny.
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Corn Palace, Mitchell, South Dakota |
We arrived in Keystone, South Dakota in the late
afternoon. Keystone is the closest town to Mount Rushmore. We were attracted by
a large flashing neon sign that advertised motel rooms for $59.00 a night. The
motel was perched on the mountainside overlooking Keystone. It turned out that
the advertising was just bullshit and the rooms were more like $159.00 a night.
We drove around town looking for another motel and saw
another $59.00 a night neon sign. Again it was bullshit. We checked into a
modest motel at about $100.00 a night and stayed there for 2 days. As we were
unloading the car we struck up a conversation with some middle aged bikers who
were sitting outside their rooms with their wives and girlfriends having a few
pops. It turned out that they were all from Port Coquitlam, BC not far from
where we live.
About the only thing we found interesting about Keystone
was the local museum and some bronze sculptures by the guy and his son who
built the Mount Rushmore monument. Their names were Gutson Borglum and Lincoln
Borglum. When he was younger, the father studied in Paris and actually knew the
famous French sculptor Auguste Rodin. The Mount Rushmore Memorial was started
in 1927 and completed in 1941.
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Mount Rushmore |
We never got really close up to the monument as we
couldn’t be bothered with the pay parking lot and you could see the thing very
clearly from other vantage points.
The food in Keystone was probably the worst of our trip.
We tried the breakfast buffet in one joint that had greasy eggs and partially
cooked bacon. I ordered a donair in another place and was served some fried
luncheon meat on microwaved pita bread. I placed an order for a 3 cheese
grilled sandwich for take out and they gave my order to another customer. They
actually ran down the street to recover it. I also made the mistake of buying
some fudge that was below room temperature.
Every night in Keystone they stage some kind of native
Indian thing with a whole lot of hooping and hollering. A lot of the shops had
fake fronts making them look like they were from over a hundred years ago. Sort
of. There were a lot of signs advertising 50% off. All in all a tacky, tacky
little town.
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Keystone, South Dakota.
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We went for a drive around the area and it was well worth
it. There were lots of short tunnels through parts of mountains and lots of
pine trees. On our second day there I decided to see if I could find a good
place where the dog could swim. It took me well over an hour to find a place
that was accessible and it ended up being in a park in another small town that
had a brook running through it.
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Tunnel. |
We visited the Crazy Horse Memorial about 20 miles away
from Mount Rushmore. Again another tourist trap but a lot more tasteful than
Keystone. You can’t get very close to the actual monument as it is a work in
progress. It was started in 1848 and it appears it will be well over 100 years
from now when it will be completed. It is much bigger than Mount Rushmore and
at this time only the head of Crazy Horse has been accomplished.
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Crazy Horse Monument |
We left the Mount Rushmore area and headed into Montana.
We spent the night in a place called Red Lodge. The next morning we found
ourselves on The Bear Tooth Highway that starts in Montana and ends up in
Wyoming. It was absolutely spectacular and one of the high points of our trip.
And I do mean “high point”. The highway winds and winds its way up to the
mountain tops with lots of hairpins. We were up so far that there were snow
banks that hadn’t totally melted in the summer weather.
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Goat herd near Red Lodge, Montana |
We saw a few marmots, alpine lakes, and wildflowers
everywhere. It was totally amazing. I got a little nervous at times because the
road was narrow and there were thousands of feet drop offs just off of the road
and often no barriers. The speed limit was 15 miles per hour in some places.
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Hairy road. |
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Our dog Cooper swimming in Alpine lake. |
We found our way to the park entrance to Yellowstone
National Park. We were on a roll as far as spectacularscenery goes. Years ago,
I spent some time living in Banff and Jasper, Alberta in the Canadian Rockies
and Yellowstone gives them a run for their money.
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Gatehouse to Yellowstone. |
The wild buffalo herds alone are enough to blow you away.
The scenery is awesome. We saw mountain goats, deer, and elk. There were lots
of creeks and small lakes. We took a pass on going to see Old Faithful as we
had seen a number of other geysers. We really only spent one day at Yellowstone
but was a day we will long remember.
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Wind turbines. |
We crossed the mighty Columbia River and into Washington
State. The eastern part of Washington is desert like in a lot of places. In
other spots they grow wheat and corn and some vegetables. We spent out last night
in Ellensberg, Washington about 100 miles east of Seattle. (Hey…I’m an old guy
and I still use miles and Fahrenheit when I can.)
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Columbia River. |
As we got closer to Seattle we could see the thick
forests we are familiar with in BC. We were almost home. We stopped off at a
MacDonalds for breakfast. There was a white guy about 40 years of age sitting
with a black teenager at the next table. A prayer was said before they ate. It
made me think of the good rock stations we listened to on the road trip that
faded away before us then hearing some religious sermonizing and us deciding to
just turn the radio off.
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Seattle. |
We stopped off at Bellingham, Washington and went to the
local mall and bought a bunch of clothes. Also picked up some duty free booze
near the border.
We had a bit of waiting to do at the ferry terminal near
Vancouver and after a long day and a 35 day trip it was good to be home. One of
the first things I did was go to the grocery store the next day to get some
decent food.
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