Most
Canadians know where Vancouver Island is but if you live in another country you
may have never heard of it. I’m a bit prejudiced in that I live here but I
think it is the best place to live on the planet and an amazing summer vacation
destination.
Vancouver
Island is off the coast of British Columbia. It is about 300 miles in length
and about 50 miles width at the widest point. The island has a population of
about 800,000 with half of those people living in the city of Victoria area.
(Victoria is the capital of the province of British Columbia). There are 3 ways
to get to the island by car. BC Ferries has sailing routes from Vancouver, BC
to Victoria which is at the southern tip of the island and to the city of
Nanaimo which is about a 2 hour drive north from Victoria. There is also a
ferry route from Port Angeles in Washington State to Victoria which is run by a
company called Black Ball. The ferry ride from Vancouver to Nanaimo takes 2
hours. The ferry ride from Port Angeles to Victoria and Vancouver to Victoria
takes 1-1/2 hours. Tourists from all over the world marvel at the ocean views
from the top decks of the ferries.
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| Vancouver Island |
There is an
express highway that goes from Victoria to Campbell River. It is also known as
the Trans Canada Highway or The Inland Island Highway. I am just going to call
it the “express highway” in these writings. There is also what some called the
Old Island Highway that runs close to the eastern shoreline that offers
outstanding ocean views. Most Vancouver Islanders live on the east coast of the
island. About a 20 minute drive north of Nanaimo is the seaside town of
Parksville. It is here that you can turn right and head out to Pacific Rim
National Park. After passing through Port Alberni, the road becomes curvy with a
number of hairpins. The drive from Parksville to Pacific Rim National Park
takes about 2 hours. You will notice very quickly that you are out in the
wilderness.
One of the
things that make Vancouver Island so unique is its diversity. Beaches, fresh
water lakes, unpolluted creeks and rivers, and waterfalls are everywhere. Most
often you are only minutes away from deep lush forests. From the express
highway you will see beautiful farms on rolling hills. There are a number of
vineyards on the island. There are always some mountains in sight, some which
are snow-capped throughout the year. Every little town, every little beachside
community, offers something interesting and different.
It really
doesn’t matter what your age is, there is something for everyone. If you are
older and just want to take in the breath taking views and stay in a B&B or
fancy hotel it is there for you. If you are a golfer there are beautiful
courses all over the island. Vancouver Island offers some of the best salmon
fishing in the world in places like Campbell River, Port Alberni, Tofino, and
Ucluelet. If you are the outdoor type there are hiking trails everywhere
including ones to the tops of mountains. Each year a number of seasoned hikers
tackle the 65 mile West Coast Trail. You can surf at Long Beach or rent a kayak
at a number of seaside towns on the island. You can walk through the giant Douglas
fir trees at Cathedral Grove, see the killer whales on a boat excursion, or
walk for miles along the sand at Long Beach.
It gets hot
in the summer on Vancouver Island (we usually have long stretches without rain
in July and August.) Unlike other areas in North America, in summer we have very
little humidity and there is usually a light ocean breeze going on. For some
reason we also have very few mosquitoes.
If you are
travelling as a family there are all kinds of campgrounds throughout the
island. I would suggest you book early if you plan to stay at one of the
provincial or national parks. If you prefer a more upscale place to stay and
relax you may choose to stay at one of the many resorts and spas. Each summer a
number of visitors choose to take in Vancouver Island by renting a camper van.
There is no
shortage of great places to dine including a number of waterfront pubs with
incredible views.
Have I got
you enthused yet? How about bungee jumping or riding a zip line?
Pretty well
every town has one or more festival in the summer months. There is the
Parksville Sand Castle Competition, the Victoria Jazz Festival, and the Nanaimo
World Champion Bathtub Races, just to name a few. Live theatre can be found in
places like Qualicum Beach, Chemainus, and Victoria. Many towns have Saturday
morning farmer’s markets.
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| Nanaimo Blue Festival |
So….how about
a guided tour? I am going to try and do my best to tell you about the best
places to go and the best places to see. I’ll try not to leave much out.
A Guided Tour of Vancouver Island
Victoria
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| Parliament buildings Victoria |
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| The Empress Hotel Victoria |
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| Butchart Gardens |
We are going
to start in Victoria and work our way up island. If you like shopping or dining
out Victoria is your place. The city is crawling with restaurants and offers
every conceivable cuisine. Check out Fiamo Italian Kitchen and Fifth Street Bar & Grill. Yes in the summer the city can be a bit of a tourist
trap but there is a lot to see. You could go for high tea at the famed Empress
Hotel which faces the harbour. Just next door are the provincial parliament
buildings. A block away is the Imax Theatre and close by is the can’t be missed
Royal British Columbia Museum. You could visit the birth place of famous
Canadian artist Emily Carr. A great place for lunch is Fisherman’s Wharf which
is about a 20 minute walk from downtown. You will probably need to get
directions to find Butchart Gardens which is one the most beautiful gardens in
the world. There is a lot more to do and see in Victoria but if you just want
to go for a nice drive I suggest driving over to Beacon Hill Park close to
downtown and follow the Oceanside route past some old and new outstanding houses
that face out on to the ocean. Enjoy an outdoor coffee or lunch in Oak Bay.
There are all kinds of great golf courses in and around Victoria.
Sooke And Port Renfrew
You will
probably need directions as to where to cut off the main highway and head west
to Sooke and Port Renfrew but it will be well worth it. Look for Highway 14. I
suggest this drive as a day trip. The road has a lot of twists and turns and
you are very close to the Pacific Ocean at times with amazing views. Sometimes
this area can get fogged in a bit but the fog is usually gone by about noon.
Sooke is a seaside town worth stopping at. Further up the highway is great
little resort to stop off at for lunch at called Point No Point. Years ago, back in
the 1960s, it was run by two little old ladies who have since passed on.
Apparently each table in the dining room has a set of binoculars on it to take
in the ocean views.
On the way to
Port Renfrew you will notice signs with names like China Beach. There are a
number of beaches along this route not too far from the highway. There is also
the outstanding Juan de Fuca Trail that runs from Sooke to Port Renfrew. You
have your choice of relaxing on the beach or a hike through the rain forest. Port
Renfrew is truly at the end of the road. You can’t drive any further west. Port
Renfrew is also where hikers with reservations begin the world famous West
Coast Trail. Dockside in Port Renfrew is a lounge/restaurant with a nice
outdoor patio.
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| China Beach |
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| Juan de Fuca Trail |
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| Port Renfrew |
Sidney and Salt Spring Island
You take the
Pat Bay Highway northeast from Victoria. Sidney is where the ferry terminal is
from Victoria to Vancouver. There isn’t a whole lot to see in Sidney but there
are some nice restaurants on the main drag. It is a short ferry ride to the
most populated of the Southern Gulf Islands, Salt Spring Island, which is
inhabited by about 10,000 people, a mixture of well to do yuppies and folks
with a bit of hippy in them. Every Saturday morning there is a large outdoor
market with locals selling everything from homemade preserves to hand stitched
clothes, from pottery to locally grown produce. Noted Canadian artist Robert
Bateman lives on the island. There are some very pretty farms on the island and
you are sure to see sheep grazing somewhere. You can get a really good view of
some of the other Southern Gulf Islands from the top of Mount Maxwell. Other
islands that can be reached by ferry from Sidney include Mayne, North and South
Pender, and Galiano.
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| Saltspring Island |
The Malahat
The Malahat
is a stretch of highway just north of Victoria. It has a steep incline at both
ends of it. There are some viewpoints along the way where you can pull over and
look out over the Gulf Islands. If you haven’t driven the road before you might
want to stay in the inside lane as there is a tendency for a number of people
to drive over the speed limit here. There is a cut off on the Malahat to pretty
Shawnigan Lake which is well worth spending a few hours at.
.JPG) |
| View of Southern Gulf Islands |
Cobble Hill
After the
steep descent down from the Malahat you will see a cut off to Cobble Hill. If
wine and wine tasting is your thing, there are probably more vineyards in this
area than any other on Vancouver Island. There are a lot of farms in the area.
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| Cobble Hill |
Something To Remember
If you are
driving north on the Island Highway remember that the ocean is always to your
right. Don’t be afraid to venture down a road to your right. You will always
end up by the ocean. One of the prettier little spots is a place called Genoa
Bay. There are boathouses in the area and a nifty little pub right by the
water. Follow the shoreline road and you will pass some very pretty farms.
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| Genoa Bay |
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| Genoa Bay |
Cowichan Bay
You will have
to take a right hand turn off of the Island Highway to get to Cowichan Bay. The
main drag has all kinds of little shops and restaurants. It is also a good
place to buy fresh seafood. The Rock Cod Café was featured on the Canadian food
show You Gotta Eat Here.
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| Cowichan Bay |
Duncan
You are now
in the Cowichan Valley. The valley has a population of about 80,000 people.
Duncan has a population of about 5,000. The world’s biggest hockey stick is in
Duncan. This area is also where Cowichan sweaters are knitted, usually with
First Nations designs on them.
Chemainus
Chemainus is
known world-wide for its many murals that have been painted on building walls.
It is also known for its theatre that produces a number plays and musicals
throughout the year. This summer’s musical is Les Miserable.
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| Chemainus theatre |
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| Chemainus mural |
Ladysmith
Ladysmith is
one of a number of places on Vancouver Island that were once coal mining towns.
Ladysmith is known for its older buildings and Christmas lights display in
December.
Nanaimo
Nanaimo is
the 2nd biggest city on Vancouver Island. The hub, tub, and pub
city. It has a population of about 85,000 people. Nanaimo is where jazz singer
Diana Krall is from. Take a walk along the downtown waterfront. This is where
you can catch a small ferry to Newcastle Island or the Dingy Dock Pub which is
the only registered floating pub in Canada. Among the many shops in the older
part of downtown is a place called The Flying Fish that sells furniture and
home items you don’t often find at other places. A very interesting store.
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| Nanaimo waterfront |
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| Nanaimo bathtub race |
The Nanaimo
waterfront is where The International World Championship Bathtub Race starts
and finishes at the end of July. Nearby
Maffeo Park by the ocean hosts live outdoor entertainment in the summer months
including part of the Nanaimo Blues Festival.
Just south of
Nanaimo off the road to ferry at Duke Point is the village of Cedar. There are
3 fine dining places in the area. The 1st is Mahle House which is in
a quaint older building and offers exquisite food. Not far away from here is
The Crow & Gate Pub which is as authentic as a British pub could be without
being in the U.K. Relax outdoors in a garden setting while you enjoy your
bangers and mash along with a pint. You will find yourself in a beautiful
country setting that includes a pond with a variety of geese. About 15 minutes
further along is Yellow Point Lodge. It is one of those classic resorts that
has been around for many, many years. It even has an outdoor salt water pool. The
views from in front of the lodge are spectacular.
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| Yellow Point Lodge |
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| Crow & Gate Pub |
Just south of
Nanaimo is a place called Wild Play where you can jump off a bridge attached to
a bungee cord, take a ride on a zip line, or negotiate your way through the
high trees attached to a harness. The latter is suitable and safe for anyone
over 12 years of age.
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| Zip line |
Parksville
Parksville is
about a 20 minute drive north of Nanaimo. The town is well known for its summer
sand castle building festival. This is great place to spend the day at the
beach. At the southern tip of Parksville is Rathtrevor Provincial Park. A nice
place to camp or enjoy the trails and beach.
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| Ratrevor Neach |
Decision Time?
Parksville is
where one decides whether to continue north on the island or turn left and head
across the island to the incomparable Pacific Rim National Park and Long Beach.
You really don’t want to miss this spectacular countryside. We’ll get back to
Parksville later. We’re off to the west coast!
Coombs And Cathedral Grove
Find the
highway that takes you west to Coombs. The town is a bit of a tourist trap but
you should stop and see the restaurant/bakery with the goats on the roof. The
highway you are on hooks up with the highway to Port Alberni and points west.
You will want to stop and wander through Cathedral Grove where some of the
biggest trees in the world are located. You may well want to spend 2-3 hours
here. Next up is “the hump” where the highway raises high in the mountains
(Mount Arrowsmith is off to your left) and then descends into the Alberni
Valley.
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| Goats on roof at Coombs, BC |
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| Catherdral Grove |
Port Alberni And Sproat Lake
Port Alberni
has a population of about 27,000 people. It is the last stop on the way to the
west coast of the island. If you are fit you might want to try hiking up nearby
Mount Arrowsmith. August is probably the best time for salmon fishing on the
Somass River that runs right in front of the town. Campbell River and Port
Alberni both seem to claim to be the salmon capital of the world. If you turn
left when you reach the river the road will bring you over to Port Alberni
Harbour Quay that offers a number of restaurants and small shops.
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| Port Alberni |
About a 20
minute drive west of Port Alberni is the gorgeous Sproat Lake. The lake is
about 15 miles long and the home of the Martin Mars water bombers, planes often
used to fight forest fires in California.
The highway
from here to the west coast is quite windy with a number of hairpins. You have
to slow down to about 25 mph at times. There are a number of places you can
pull over along the way and view waterfalls and the rushing river. It is quite
common in this stretch of highway to see a black bear or two. Don’t get out of
your car to take a picture unless they are quite a distance away. Be prepared
to be patient if you are following a number of motor homes.
Bamfield
There is a
dirt road that goes out to the small fishing village of Banfield on the west
coast of the island from Port Alberni. I only suggest taking this road if you
are the wild and woolly type because your vehicle will be caked in dust
including places that are hard to clean. Bamfield is at the beginning or end of
The West Coast Trail.
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| West Coast Trail |
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| West Coast Trail |
Pacific Rim National Park, Long Beach,
Tofino, and Ucluelet
It has been a
fairly long drive but you are finally here. You will come to a “T” in the road.
On your right is the park admissions office where you will have to pay a small
fee if you are spending any time in the Pacific Rim National Park. The park
staff can provide you with info and pamphlets.
At the “T”
you can either go to your left to Ucluelet or to your right towards Long Beach,
Pacific Rim National Park, and Tofino. Ucluelet is about a 15 minute drive from
the “T”. On your way through town you will see the Canadian Princess Fishing
Resort to your left. The Canadian Princess is a renamed ship built in eastern
Canada in the 1930s. Today it is permanently moored and has a restaurant and
bar. There is also a lodge next to it. This is good place to stop for lunch or
a cocktail. Perhaps you will see the salmon catch that day being cleaned in the
early afternoon.
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Canadian Princess, Ucluelet, BC
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Keep
following the main road through a residential area and you will come to the
Amphrite Point Lighthouse parking lot. The lighthouse can be seen up close only
a hundred yards or so away. This is also the beginning of The Wild Pacific
Trail. Here you will get an up close view of the wild Pacific Ocean. It is an
easy trail to navigate.
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| Wild Pacific Trail |
We are now
going to turn around and head back along the road we arrived on. Just past the
“T” on the left hand side of road are some surf shops and outdoor café’s
nestled in the trees, a good place to grab a cup of java.
Long Beach
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Long Beach
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You are about
to enter Pacific Rim National Park. Take the cut off to Wickaninnish Beach and
Interpretive Centre. Here you will find a restaurant with magnificent views of
the beach and the Pacific Ocean. Next door is the Interpretive Centre that has
exhibits about the flora and fauna of the area and some First Nations history.
Arthur Lismer, one of Canada’s most famous painters, and one of The Group of
Seven, painted seascapes in the area back in the 1930s.
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| Wickaninnish Restaurant |
Driving back
to the highway you will see a sign to your right indicating Florencia Beach.
Many tourists miss this spot but it is one of those that know favourite places
to go. You take a wooden stairway to get down to the beach. At the bottom of
the stairs is where most who have come to surf the waves hang out. It is worth
it to sit on a log and just watch them for a while. After you have taken in the
surfers for a while, head left along the beach. Take your shoes off and walk
through the surf. After a while you will come to creek that you will have to
wade across. Walk for another mile or so. Drop your beach chairs or blanket and
plant yourself for the day. This is one of our favourite spots anywhere on the
planet! You are off by yourself. On most days you may see as few as a dozen
people hiking past you along the beach. On the horizon you can see a small
uninhabited island a mile or so off shore. It doesn’t get much better than
this.
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| Surfers Florencia Beach |
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| Florencia Beach |
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| Florencia Beach |
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Florencia Beach
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| Grice Bay |
We are now
going back to highway and will make a left turn when we get there. Green Point
is the name of the campground in Pacific Rim National Park. If you plan to stay
here it is suggested that you make plans months in advance to get a
reservation. It is usually booked early for the months of July and August. The
campground also has a little theatre where the park Parks Canada folks will
talk about things to do and see in the area each night. Long Beach is just
below the campground.
Other spots
of note in Pacific Rim National Park are Combers Beach, Schooner Cove, Grice
Bay, and Radar Hill. Whether you only go once to this part of BC, or return for
other visits, the beauty of wild nature will leave a lasting impression on you.
We are now
leaving the National Park. From here to Tofino there are a number of first
class seaside resorts. Tofino is the end of the road. You can’t go any further
west from here. Tofino is a world class destination. People come from all over
the world to visit Pacific Rim National Park and almost always end up in
Tofino. It definitely is a tourist centre with small cafes, first class
restaurants, and offers are a variety of tours. Killer Whale watching is one of
the more popular attractions and of course salmon fishing. There are a number
of B&B’s in town. You can even go horseback riding on the beach if you care
to. A great place to relax and unwind with the locals is Jack’s Pub at Marina
West. I met Chris Hayes, the American political TV guy on MSNBC, at this pub
some years ago. You can purchase fresh
seafood here or watch the day’s catch by guests being cleaned on the dock. The
pub has a great view of the harbour.
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| View from Tofino |
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| Killer Whale watching Tofino |
If you are
one of hardy outdoor type and are into ocean kayaking, the Broken Islands are
just minutes away. Tofino is comfortable place to spend time at. It is kind of
like you are at the edge of the world.
And so we say
goodbye to the west coast (kind of sounds like an old movie travelogue doesn’t
it?)
We are going
to head all of the way back to Parksville on the east coast of the island. The
drive (without stopping) will take about 2 hours.
Once again we
have a choice of taking the island expressway or the slower coastal road. We
are going to take the latter as there is more to see and we will be closer to
the ocean.
Qualicum Beach, Bowser, Deep Cove, and
Fanny Bay
Buckley Bay
is where the ferry goes to Denman Island. You have to catch a 2nd ferry to get
to Hornby Island. There are some beautiful farms on both islands. A trip to
Hornby Island is well worth it. 2 places to visit there that I highly recommend
are Tribune Bay and the Helliwell hiking trail.
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| Buckley Bay ferry to Denman and Hornby Islands |
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| Helliwell Trail Hornby Island |
It is about a
20 minute drive from Buckley Bay to the city of Courtenay. Personally, I’m not
a big fan of The Kingfisher Resort and Spa that you will pass along the way.
Courtenay And Comox
It is worth
it to stop off in Courtenay and visit the shops on 5th Avenue.
Courtenay also has one of the islands most outstanding golf courses called
Crown Isle. If diving is your things check out U.B. Diving in Courtenay. If not
“you be” doing something else. One
of 2 bridges will take you over to the upscale town of Comox which offers
boutique shopping and some pubs and restaurants with excellent water views.
Comox also has an international airport and a Canadian air force base and an
aircraft museum. Check out Seal Bay Nature Park. For those that are the
adventurous sorts, take the ferry from Comox to Powell River where there is an
artist colony.
We are going
to stay on the coastal highway from Courtenay to Campbell River simply because
there is more to see on this route. There are 3 or 4 things that you might want
to see when you take the express highway back at the end of your vacation on
Vancouver Island.
Campbell River
Campbell
River also claims to be the salmon fishing capital of the world. Port Alberni
offers river fishing for salmon where the Campbell River area is all about
ocean fishing. Just north of the city is a fishing resort called Painter’s
Lodge with expert fishing guides. It is also a great place to stop for lunch.
Just a short distance away is Quadra Island. If you are really keen about
salmon fishing you have your choice of a number of resorts including April
Point on Quadra Island. Another island that can be reached by ferry from
Campbell River is Cortes Island. Check out The Fusilli Grill for lunch or
dinner in Campbell River.
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| Painters Lodge Campbell River |
Telegraph Cove, Port McNeil, And Port
Hardy
Once you
leave Campbell River and head north you will be finding yourself in a more
sparsely populated part of the island. Towns are more far apart. You are pretty
well assured to see bears somewhere close to highway at some point. You will
probably realize that for a good part of this section of your trip that you are
out in the wilderness. There are pretty lakes on both sides of the highway.
Nimpkish Lake is a favourite of wind surfers.
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| Nimpkish Lake |
Telegraph
Cove is a pretty little harbour with most of the buildings built on stilts. It
is a great place to go kayaking. There is a nice pub there but be prepared to
pay 13 bucks for a burger.
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| Telegraph Cove |
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| Kayakers at Telegraph Cove |
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Telegraph Cove
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Port McNeil
and Port Hardy are both fishing ports and some of the locals are involved in
the forestry industry which has been in decline on Vancouver Island for
decades. Avid American sports fishermen have been coming up to this area for
years.
Sointula Island And Alert Bay
Both of these
destinations can be reached by ferry from Port McNeil. Sointula is a very
pretty island with well-kept small farms. Be sure and drive out to the
lighthouse which is just a short hike away from where you’ll park your car.
There is a nice road that goes along the shoreline just off of the ferry.
Sointula was initially settled by Finnish immigrants. The population of Alert
Bay is mostly First Nations people. I wouldn’t say it is the most friendly
place. There is an excellent gift shop with First Nations artworks right by the
“residential school” that has been closed and shuttered for a number of years.
The school and how First Nations children were forced to go there and were
often abused is not one of British Columbia’s high points in history.
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| Alert Bay |
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| Residential school alert Bay |
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| Old double decker British buses alert Bay |
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| Northern Gulf Islands ferry |
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Fishing boat
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Cape Scott Provincial Park
Cape Scott is
at the northwest tip of Vancouver Island. It is one of few places on the island
that I have not visited. From what I understand you have to take a dirt road to
get to the park and you are basically totally away from civilization once you
get there. Only really experienced hikers and campers should venture out to the
park.
Heading Back South
We are now
going to go back down the island. It will take a few hours to get to Campbell
River on the 2 lane highway. You are sure to notice the mountains that have
snow on top of them year round. Once you get to Campbell River you are going to
take the Island Express Highway which has 2 lanes going both north and south.
Strathcona Provincial Park
Strathcona
Provincial Park is both the largest provincial park on Vancouver Island and the
Province of BC’s oldest provincial park. Once again if you plan on hiking you
should be fit but if you just want to relax at a lodge that is also available
to you. The park is about a 40 minute drive from Campbell River.
Mount Washington
This is where
Vancouver Islanders ski in the winter. Depending on the snowfall, the ski
season is sometimes extended into May. It is well worth the winding drive up to
the chairlifts and lodges in the summer. It is a great place for mountain
biking, taking a chairlift ride, or going for a hike.
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| Mount Washington |
Cumberland And Comox Lake
There is a
left hand turn off near the right hand exit to Courtenay that will take you to
the old mining town of Cumberland. A number of the original buildings that were
built long ago still exist. There is a mining museum in town. A few miles away
is the secluded Comox Lake, a nice place to spend the afternoon at the beach.
Horne Lake
Now that you
have done almost everything you could imagine on your trip how about something
a little different like caving? Horne Lake has a beautiful beach with mountain
backdrops. It is also known for its guided tours of the nearby caves.
Heading For Home
Nanaimo is
probably your best bet to get back to Vancouver. You can either take the ferry
to West Vancouver from downtown Nanaimo or to Tsawwassen just south of
Vancouver from Duke Point just south of Nanaimo.
Some Things To Remember
#1 Book early
if you are planning on spending some time camping at one of the parks,
particularly at Pacific Rim National Park. The same is true for the more
popular resorts.
#2 Be
prepared to slow down a bit. For the most part Vancouver Island people are not
in a big hurry and the general atmosphere is casual.
#3 Decide
what activities you would like to do in advance. Of course you can always wing
things but it usually better to have some kind of plan.
Don’t be Shy!
If you have
any questions about Vancouver Island that you think I can answer, just e-mail
me. If you want to know where the best trails are, where the best ocean fishing
places are, where the best pubs are, where the best kayaking places are, the
names of some really good restaurants, where the best golf courses are, where
the best beaches are….etc., etc., DON’T BE AFRAID TO ASK!
I’m not being
paid to write what I’ve written. I truly love Vancouver Island and all it has
to offer. The more tourists the better the better the local economy! It is a
place you won’t soon forget.
